Thursday 6 February 2014

Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter

At the beginning of the 20th Century Haute Couture had risen fashion to new heights - the dressmaker was now a Fashion designer, and Couture ruled supreme. Although most looked to Paris couturiers, there was one English man who revolutionised the art of fashion.

Although law dictates that something can only be called Haute Couture if it has been made in an atelier in Paris, Charles Frederick Worth put the British stamp on this exclusive and prestigious fashion category by moving to Paris and changing the face of dressmaking.



Charles Frederick Worth (source: wikipedia)

Worth, dubbed the 'Father of Haute Couture', took away what he deemed unecessary (such as bulk added by frills and giant ruffles) and focused on redefining and flattering the female shape - shapes were streamlined and smooth. He used luxury materials and tailored the garment exactly to his customers needs; people travelled from far and wide just to have a Worth creation, and he became so exclusive that he had to turn down customers, creating for Princesses and film stars.




Dress for Empress Elisabeth of Austria by Worth (source: rubylane.com) and Valentino Couture Cape (source: stylefrizz,com) - You can see how even in modern times, designers have been influenced by a) previous fashion masters and b) similar works of beauty in our world; both look inspired by wrought-iron designs, and the visual impact is stunning!

Picture 006
Evening dress by the House of Worth (in 1902) (source: madameguillotine.org.uk)

Tea gown

Tea Gown by the House of Worth (source: metmuseum.org) - the billowing sleeves are a slightly different look to the usual tailored Worth silhouette, and give a softer feminine look. The basque waistline is flattering to all shapes and the overall look has both elements of drama and elegance.

Evening dress

Evening dress by the House of Worth (source: metmuseum.org)

Callot Soeurs, a French couturier, was set up by the four Callot sisters (Marie, Marthe, Regina and Josephine). They were famed for their cylindrical silhouette, using exotic trims and fabrics to give their garments a new and exciting aesthetic. They were inspired by lingerie and so many of the lightweight, luxurious fabrics and intricate techniques evoke that of the finest lingerie, adding an exquisite feel to their creations - some of which wouldn't look out of place on the catwalks or red carpet today.



Source: Pinterest (Callot Soeurs 1901)

Callot Soeurs Ball Gown - 1897-1905 - by Callot Soeurs (French, active 1895-1937) - Silk, metal thread - @~ Mlle

Silk and metal thread ball gown by Callot Soeurs - 1905 (source: metmuseum) - the use of metal thread looks so ahead of its time - the sheer of the silk evokes a look of the most lightweight, finest chain mail armour, used in such a feminine way.

1908.  Callot Soeurs

Callot Soeurs evening gown, 1908 (source: pinterest)


Fashion was fast becoming accessible to the masses - ready to wear collections appeared in department stores such as Harrods, and now those who could not afford couture had an alternative - mass produced garments inkeeping with the couture trends; although there was still a huge gap between the upper and lower classes, the lower upper class and higher middle class were now able to keep up with the trends and get a feel for the lavish lifestyle the fashion elite were living.

No comments:

Post a Comment